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Eating the bear.....DAMN, its goood!

About 15 years ago, I bought this really nice std bore, small journal, '66 date code 327 long block for $150. The original plan was, it was supposed to be the motor for my Chevy II wagon. I have a pair of AFR 195s for the chevy II, so the 461's that came on it were set aside. I never even disassembled them.
A few years later, I ran across a steel '23 roadster body, and decided it was time to follow my lifelong dream of building a sixties T-bucket, the original plan was to use a very nice 289 Ford core I have here.
About 5 years ago, I got a deal on a set of early hilborns for a sbc, and that plan changed. I decided to use the 327 in the T-bucket, along with the 461's, and piece together another motor for the Chevy II out of other stuff I had laying around.
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So the last few days, I have been messing around with the fake 270hp 283 motor I am building for my T sedan. I have most everything here to put the motor together, but the heads need to be done. I am starting with a pair of power paks that I pulled off a 283 core that a friend pulled out of a '64 chevelle. I payed $50 for it, it was missing the valve covers, manifold, carb starter and distributor, other than that it was pretty complete, including a good short water pump. I bought it as a parts motor for the '57 short block I had for the T-tudor.
I have a shitload of old 1.94 and 1.50 chevy valves laying around, so the plan was to go through them, measure the margins, mic the stems, pick out the best ones, and send them in with the heads.
While I was looking around, I noticed the 1.50 exhaust valves in the 461's for the 327 had flat faces, hey, an easy way to save a couple cc's in the chambers. Better pull them out and take a look at them. 20190227_120007.jpg
Whenever I disassemble a pair of heads, I ALWAYS clean any burrs off the valve stem with a fine jewelers file,, and make sure theres no burr at the top of the stem. The top is usually burred, as are the keeper grooves. The valve needs to come out of the guide absolutely cleanly with NO drag or tight spots whatsoever. I pull the valves out very slowly and gently, and if I feel ANY tight spot, I stop, push them back up, and file some more. If you DONT follow this method, the guides will be wasted FOR SURE, and you will never know if they were any good in the first place. You never know what you are going to find. Sorry, I only seem to be able to attach one pic per post. 20190227_130100.jpg
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Once I got the valves out, this is what I found. Yup, new guides. If I had done like I have seen other guys do, and drive the valves out with a punch, because "well, they are junk anyway", these guides would have been wasted. Happy days!
Ok, so lets digress a bit from the power packs. The magazines will tell you that it makes more economic sense to buy nice shiny new aluminum heads (from one of thier advertisers, natch;)) than to rebuild old iron chevy heads. Now these heads will not be cheap, because I am running a .645 lift roller in this motor. That also rules out entry level aftermarket heads. So heres the valves that will be going in these, I bought the full set of Manley stainless 2.02s and 1.60s off an oval track racer at the Monroe swap for $40.
I still need springs and retainers, and I will have to pay to have a valve job done, and I will also angle mill the shit out of these. I will cut the spring seats and port them myself, that will be another chapter. All told, with roller springs, good retainers, machined split locks, I will probably be into these for around $800 CDN, and when I am done porting them, they will flow around 250-255@.600 lift. I cant even LOOK at a set of entry level aftermarket heads for less than $1200 CDN, and I would still have to change the springs, retainers and split locks for tne big roller. Besides which, aftermarket heads would look TOTALLY STUPID on what is supposed to be a "sixties" hot rod.
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Ok, back to the power packs. So most guys would say "oh man, you cant use used valves, totally mickey mouse, says so in the magazineso_O". So lets take a look at these.
Intake stem. Yes, for those that cant read a mic, they are bang on spec.

Intakes need about 1/64 margin, i realize its hard to tell on this totally shitty photo(using the ipad to take pics sux large) but these are well over

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Ok, lets be clear here, I got lucky with the 461's, but its not the first time I have pulled apart a set of camel bumps that I got cheap and found good guides and valves. I measured several other 1.94s that I have pulled out of used heads, and I would have no problem putting together a second full set of usable valves just out of "junk" I have laying around. The point is, if you assume the stuff is junk, and are sloppy about disassembling stuff, you will never know if it was any good or not, because you will damage it taking it apart.
The power packs will get some porting and I will unshroud the chambers before I send them in, they do need guides, thats $145 CDN, the valve job will run me another $160, and they will need some milling, I will still be into them for under $600. I will follow up here, as that progresses.
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Exhausts, again bang on.

Margins on exhaust valves should be at least 1/32, these are well over.
Just realized, one thing I should point out here. Obviously, the photos of me miking the valve stems are posed, its pretty much impossible to accurately mic a valve stem with one hand while you are using the other to shoot a photo. What I DIDNT notice when I took the photo, is that the posed shot actually shows me miking them in the wrong place! Valve stems generally show the most wear at peak lift, so technically, the photo is incorrect, I should be miking higher on the stem. Just wanted to point that out for claritys sake.I DID mic them in the right place when I was actually checking the size.:p
Is there any interest in seeing more stuff on head prep and engine building? I dont want to be going on and on if I am boring people, honestly, that happens a lot at events and stuff, I have learned over the years to keep my thoughts in this area to myself for the most part.
Ok, well, Im gonna flog a dead horse here, just a little. Ill be clear, there are questions around some of Tonys business practices, so dont think this is any kind of recommendation, and do your homework before you do business with ANYBODY;) but theres no question he is a competent cylinder head guy, and his videos are excellent.
Just so you you know, as far as any ideas you have about aftermarket cylinder heads (or Scat/Eagle cranks and rods for that matter, you will see the same sort of thing) being "ready to run". If you dont know what you are doing or looking at, and you dont have the background to do the work yourself, then they might appear to be "good enough" right out of the box, but if you have the background to know what you are looking at, then this is a good example of what you might find.;) caveat emptor.

I guess I dont have to point out the obvious. When Edelbrock or whoever sends a set of heads out to Hot Rod or Car Craft or Super Chevy for an article, they dont send a set with fucked up undercut bowls or seats that are .010 out of concentricity, so when you say "oh yea, my heads flow 275@.600, it said so in Car Craft" ......well, nuff said.
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