32 Frame Construction

gbfab · « **on:** April 01, 2016, 07:26:04 PM »

Boxing plates cut out and tacked in place ready to weld

gbfab · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2016, 07:27:39 PM »

Cross members in and ready to weld

TS3X65MPH · « **Reply #2 on:** October 28, 2016, 12:59:20 AM »

Any up dates ?

gbfab · « **Reply #3 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:46:02 PM »

Booster, master cyl. trans cooler, and 4 bar mts added.

gbfab · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:47:20 PM »

Raised rear X-member and bobbed frame ends finished.

gbfab · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:48:29 PM »

Frt. X-member with shock mts. and Cross steer done.

gbfab · « **Reply #6 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:50:45 PM »

Body fit to frame ready to start the inner steel structure. Also fitting inner and outer door and truck skins.

gbfab · « **Reply #7 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:52:31 PM »

Front fire wall loop about ready to weld up and fit. All inner structure is 1x1x.095 wall tube.

gbfab · « **Reply #8 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:53:40 PM »

Door hinges done with more inner supports.

gbfab · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2016, 02:56:05 PM »

I made door hinges from 1/4" cold rolled with 1/4 cold rolled back plates

gbfab · « **Reply #10 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:01:02 PM »

Steel reinforcement is bonded and flush riveted to inner skins before the outer skins are fit and bonded.

gbfab · « **Reply #11 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:02:01 PM »

Inner door skin from the inside

gbfab · « **Reply #12 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:03:17 PM »

Rear structure is also .095 wall tube set back 4 inches for more seat clearance.

gbfab · « **Reply #13 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:04:57 PM »

I cut the trunk floor out and will raise it 2 1/2 inches for more clearance.

gbfab · « **Reply #14 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:06:50 PM »

Inner skin for the trunk is also stiffened with 3/4 steel. Hinge plates are welded to the tubes also.

gbfab · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:10:39 PM »

6 inch roll pan from Ravon ready to be glassed on from the inside. Best fitting one I've found. Very little trimming. Others I've had to narrow or widen by up to one inch.

gbfab · « **Reply #16 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:11:38 PM »

Steel battery box is recessed into the trunk floor.

gbfab · « **Reply #17 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:13:13 PM »

Bottom of box is 1/2 inch above the bottom of roll pan so it is not visible from the back.

gbfab · « **Reply #18 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:16:22 PM »

I milled the hinges out of 3/4 6061 T6. I bent the gas tank up from .100 5052 aluminum. It follows the floor contour and holds 20 gal.

gbfab · « **Reply #19 on:** October 28, 2016, 03:18:05 PM »

To finish the gas tank I made the filler tube from 1 5/8 stainless with a stainless nut ring inside.

TS3X65MPH · « **Reply #20 on:** October 28, 2016, 06:25:06 PM »

Thanks for all the up dates.Glad that it's moving along.Nice to see it has a 20 gal. tank.That means theres a lot of driving coming up.

DavyJ · « **Reply #21 on:** October 29, 2016, 07:35:59 PM »

Nice pictography of the body build..........................thanks

3Windo · « **Reply #22 on:** January 04, 2017, 04:30:05 PM »

Any updates?. Some very nice and cleverly thought out work and ideas going on here.

gbfab · « **Reply #23 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:18:48 PM »

Tired of glass work so finished mounting the motor. Mts are 1/4" cold rolled plate with 1x.156 4130 tubes

gbfab · « **Reply #24 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:20:55 PM »

Radiator set in .120 CR tray with 1/8 rubber covering the bottom, front and back.

gbfab · « **Reply #25 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:23:10 PM »

16" Spal fan mounted to side plates of radiator. Plastic shroud on fan will be cut back between the mounts about 1 inch to let air in from the sides.

gbfab · « **Reply #26 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:32:10 PM »

Spal fan

gbfab · « **Reply #27 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:34:44 PM »

.080 aluminum shroud before welding. Mounts to side plates with 10-32 button heads and rivet nuts.

gbfab · « **Reply #28 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:35:58 PM »

Finished radiator and shroud

gbfab · « **Reply #29 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:38:56 PM »

Now for some more glass work. I made a mold and made glass tapered buckets for 51 Pontiac tail lights and glassed them in from the inside. Also finished off the roll pan

gbfab · « **Reply #30 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:46:07 PM »

One thing always leads to another. With the tail lights recessed the License plate looked funny so I made a mold for the license plate and recessed it also. To get more clearance I cut a new plate frame on the mill that is 3/4" shorter and 1/2" narrower than the regular aftermarket ones. A lot of work for something that no one will see.

gbfab · « **Reply #31 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:47:32 PM »

This is the body on frame before finishing the doors and straightening out the sides.

gbfab · « **Reply #32 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:49:20 PM »

Finished door fitting and body work. GOD I HATE WORKING WITH FIBERGLASS!!! Now I can pull the body off and start working on all the suspension parts and narrowing the rear end.

Tom · « **Reply #33 on:** January 04, 2017, 10:23:11 PM »

Thanks for the posts. I like your work.

figure8 · « **Reply #34 on:** January 05, 2017, 08:06:55 AM »

Super nice build. Love the pinched and bobbed frame. I want to build one very similar except I will use hairpins and either a vega box or mount an Omni rack direct to the axle. Is there room for a Vega box? Do you have room for a mechanical fuel pump? Looks like your engine is mounted high. Are you planning to run a hood? Will a stock hood fit? What is your wheelbase? Thank you. Phil

gbfab · « **Reply #35 on:** January 05, 2017, 10:30:37 AM »

The Vega box used up too much space with pinched rails so I stayed with the cross steer unit. Stock mechanical pump fits fine. I mount the motor high in all the cars I have built for more ground clearance. I make a new trans tunnel so its no big deal. Hagen steel hood will fit fine. Its 32" long along the cl. Wheelbase will be 108".

gbfab · « **Reply #36 on:** January 05, 2017, 10:33:43 AM »

This chassis and suspension will be identical to my 3 window I built and it works bitchen.

figure8 · « **Reply #37 on:** January 05, 2017, 10:43:31 AM »

Thanks for the good info. I will be following this build.

gbfab · « **Reply #38 on:** January 07, 2017, 01:44:26 PM »

This roadster is going to need a 3rd brake light in Calif. so a piece of scrap billet and about an hour on the mill and done. 7 3/4 long and 3/4 high with 25 leds.

Corny Deuce · « **Reply #39 on:** January 07, 2017, 09:23:33 PM »

A couple of questions about your front suspension:
What is the length front springs and what is the spring rate?

gbfab · « **Reply #40 on:** January 08, 2017, 11:06:55 AM »

13.5 front shocks with 10" 450lb springs at 30 deg.

TS3X65MPH · « **Reply #41 on:** January 21, 2017, 07:22:20 PM »

Quote from: gbfab on January 07, 2017, 01:44:26 PM

This roadster is going to need a 3rd brake light in Calif. so a piece of scrap billet and about an hour on the mill and done. 7 3/4 long and 3/4 high with 25 leds.

I didn't know Calif. need those ?

gbfab · « **Reply #42 on:** January 22, 2017, 09:46:00 AM »

The last two I've built were titled with a Special Construction and SB100 smog exemption This required a brake and light inspection. You are then at the mercy of whoever does the inspection and how they interpret the laws. I was told that I needed both, 3rd brake light and backup lights on my 3 window and barely made it pass with the headlight height. That's the only advantage of having an original vin# and not having to do this. With a custom frame and glass body I would rather be 100% legal rather than have a bogus # and take the chance of being nailed somewhere down the line.

TS3X65MPH · « **Reply #43 on:** January 22, 2017, 11:46:23 AM »

Quote from: gbfab on January 22, 2017, 09:46:00 AM

The last two I've built were titled with a Special Construction and SB100 smog exemption This required a brake and light inspection. You are then at the mercy of whoever does the inspection and how they interpret the laws. I was told that I needed both, 3rd brake light and backup lights on my 3 window and barely made it pass with the headlight height. That's the only advantage of having an original vin# and not having to do this. With a custom frame and glass body I would rather be 100% legal rather than have a bogus # and take the chance of being nailed somewhere down the line.

Thanks.My car has the original vin# & it's always been titled.By the way Your a smart guy.Boyd went the other route.

flatheadv8s · « **Reply #44 on:** January 22, 2017, 03:59:09 PM »

Gotta have seat belts, two windshield wipers, orange turn signals and 4" ground clearance before registration here in Oz

gbfab · « **Reply #45 on:** January 22, 2017, 05:44:22 PM »

Started narrowing the rear end and making the 4 bar brackets today.

gbfab · « **Reply #46 on:** January 22, 2017, 05:46:09 PM »

Finished bracket ready to tack in place. Material used is 3/16 1018 cold rolled.

gbfab · « **Reply #47 on:** January 22, 2017, 05:47:39 PM »

Centered and ready to tack in place.

gbfab · « **Reply #48 on:** January 22, 2017, 05:54:15 PM »

Centered and ready to tack in place. Now the c notch can be located on the frame rails so it lines exactly with the axle tubes.

gbfab · « **Reply #49 on:** January 22, 2017, 05:59:27 PM »

Fixture bolts to the top shock mounts on the x member. It locks the housing in place at the correct ride height and wheel base location. Now all that is needed is to center it and rotate it to the correct pinion angle and tack everything in place. All of the finished 4 bar lengths can be measured now also.

gbfab · « **Reply #50 on:** January 23, 2017, 07:02:24 PM »

Axle tubes pulled out of line only out about 1/8 at the ends. After a little straightening and welding, fixture slid right out.

gbfab · « **Reply #51 on:** January 23, 2017, 07:05:22 PM »

picture for above post

gbfab · « **Reply #52 on:** January 23, 2017, 07:06:20 PM »

Done ready for blasting.

TS3X65MPH · « **Reply #53 on:** January 23, 2017, 08:25:32 PM »

Quote from: gbfab on January 23, 2017, 07:06:20 PM

Done ready for blasting.

Thanks for the update.Nice welds.

gbfab · « **Reply #54 on:** February 02, 2017, 07:56:22 PM »

Made the lower radiator connection today from 304 stainless and silicone stubs.

gbfab · « **Reply #55 on:** February 02, 2017, 08:02:01 PM »

Also made a recess for the steering column mount. It is set at a 15 deg. angle to the fire wall and the u joint will be inside the recess. A Borgeson swivel column mount will on the inside and the column will be shortened so the end will be at the bottom of the swivel.

gbfab · « **Reply #56 on:** February 14, 2017, 09:21:49 AM »

Almost done with the 4 bar parts. All machined parts are from 4130

gbfab · « **Reply #57 on:** February 14, 2017, 09:23:53 AM »

Mill the tube ends and ready to weld up

gbfab · « **Reply #58 on:** February 14, 2017, 10:26:11 AM »

Reinforcement for the dash. 3/4x3/4x.095 tube will be welded at the ends to the 1/4" door plates and epoxied and glassed onto the lip of the dashboard.

gbfab · « **Reply #59 on:** February 17, 2017, 12:03:51 PM »

4 bars done. Now I can mount the housing and check the c-notch before welding it up.

gbfab · « **Reply #60 on:** February 26, 2017, 01:38:51 PM »

Beginning of the rear bearing retainer and caliper mounts

gbfab · « **Reply #61 on:** February 26, 2017, 01:40:00 PM »

Retainer counter bored for the bearing

gbfab · « **Reply #62 on:** February 26, 2017, 01:41:07 PM »

Axle cut to length and retainer finished for the left side

duaneshotrods · « **Reply #63 on:** February 26, 2017, 06:42:59 PM »

Nice job looking good.

gbfab · « **Reply #64 on:** March 01, 2017, 02:01:40 PM »

Inner caliper mounts done

gbfab · « **Reply #65 on:** March 01, 2017, 02:03:49 PM »

Spacers machined and bolts cut to length

gbfab · « **Reply #66 on:** March 01, 2017, 02:06:09 PM »

Finished brakes

Tom · « **Reply #67 on:** March 01, 2017, 03:23:59 PM »

Very nice work !

3Windo · « **Reply #68 on:** March 04, 2017, 08:53:33 AM »

Very impressed with the detail and work you are putting into this.

The more updates the better in my opinion!, really enjoying this build up.

Bob J · « **Reply #69 on:** March 04, 2017, 11:05:21 AM »

Really looks good, keep 'em coming! I'm learning stuff here.

gbfab · « **Reply #70 on:** March 04, 2017, 12:55:08 PM »

finished up the brake pedal this morning between March Meet qualifying rounds. Made the bushings from Delrin.

gbfab · « **Reply #71 on:** March 14, 2017, 09:52:23 AM »

Now that I have the Hagan hood I can finish mounting the shell, make all the hinges and latch and also make the side panels and vents. This hood will take very little trimming to fit nice.

gbfab · « **Reply #72 on:** March 21, 2017, 12:52:56 PM »

Hood supports done. 1/2x3/4 6061 for top and bottom sides. 3/8" 304 stainless rod for the cross pieces.

gbfab · « **Reply #73 on:** March 23, 2017, 04:49:24 PM »

Hood support attached to hood with aircraft structural grade 10-32 100deg. countersunk flathead screws. Cross bracing will be removed when everything is tightened up.

gbfab · « **Reply #74 on:** March 23, 2017, 05:37:05 PM »

After bracing taken off ,everything stayed right where it was supposed to. An "OH SHIT" moment now would be a little expensive. After I make the hinges and latches, I'll put tabs on the rear cross support and the bottom of the hood so I can adjust the rear up or down. The Hagan hoods have a double skin on the front and back so I can't shrink the edge to bring it in line with the body.

figure8 · « **Reply #75 on:** March 24, 2017, 08:21:53 AM »

Nice: anxious to see how the hinges and latch works. Hard for me to picture what you are doing just yet. Have you decided on a windshield yet? A Duvall would look great.

gbfab · « **Reply #76 on:** March 24, 2017, 08:55:02 AM »

This is the hinge on my 3 window. The roadster hinge will be exactly the same. Stainless with quick pins for removal. Yes, the Duvall would really be nice but a little out of my price range. I'm going to machine the frame from 3/4 aluminum. Probably look similar to the So-Cal windshield but without the bottom portion at the body.

gbfab · « **Reply #77 on:** March 24, 2017, 08:56:22 AM »

This is the latching system on my 3 window. This will also be the same on the roadster.

gbfab · « **Reply #78 on:** March 28, 2017, 03:40:35 PM »

Finished stainless hood hinges

figure8 · « **Reply #79 on:** March 29, 2017, 07:14:17 AM »

thank you. Your fabrication skills are impressive

gbfab · « **Reply #80 on:** April 02, 2017, 08:59:10 PM »

Final hinge adjustment done

gbfab · « **Reply #81 on:** April 02, 2017, 09:01:53 PM »

Pull the quick pins, raise the hood to vertical and it lifts right off.

gbfab · « **Reply #82 on:** April 04, 2017, 07:00:20 PM »

Hood latches finished

gbfab · « **Reply #83 on:** April 08, 2017, 02:47:19 PM »

Started doing the mockup of the windshield today out of wood. A lot easier and cheaper to make changes in $5 worth of wood rather than $80 worth of aluminum.

gbfab · « **Reply #84 on:** April 10, 2017, 04:30:44 PM »

Got the frame finished in wood. Pretty sure it is where I want it and at the height I wanted also. I don't have a seat yet so the seat will need to be built to match the windshield opening. Could someone give a dimension of what a 2 inch chopped roadster windshield is at the center from the cowl to the top of the frame and what the exposed glass is at the center also. I need something for reference. This frame is at a 30 deg. angle right now.

gbfab · « **Reply #85 on:** April 14, 2017, 07:43:20 PM »

Windshield post done in aluminum and fit to body. Steel plates with bosses will glassed in on the inside of the body. Glass slots and end joints will be milled in next and the top cross piece will be milled to fit very last after glass pattern and everything is bolted up tight on the body. The ends are about an inch long right now.

gbfab · « **Reply #86 on:** April 17, 2017, 01:27:17 PM »

Glass slots and lap joints cut in both posts. Ready to start on the top. Every step on this so far I need to stop and have a beer and think about my next move so something doesn't get screwed up. This windshield is going to take about a case think.

duaneshotrods · « **Reply #87 on:** April 19, 2017, 07:43:48 AM »

Nice work, you've made some really cool pieces for your project.

gbfab · « **Reply #88 on:** April 19, 2017, 03:43:44 PM »

After the glass pattern was on the body I didn't like the fit along the bead on the cowl. The bead had about 1/2in. curvature so I cut it off. Fairly easy job except for the glassing on the inside bottom of the cowl keeping the resin out of my face and eyes.

gbfab · « **Reply #89 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:18:15 PM »

Posts refit to body where cowl bead was cut off. Top piece finished up this afternoon

gbfab · « **Reply #90 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:20:18 PM »

Still need to mill the glass slot for the top and drill and tap the lap joints

gbfab · « **Reply #91 on:** April 24, 2017, 07:22:11 PM »

A lot hand sanding with emery cloth and then polishing for later.

gbfab · « **Reply #92 on:** April 28, 2017, 05:10:53 PM »

Frame completely finished. Think I will leave it in a brushed finish for a while.

figure8 · « **Reply #93 on:** April 29, 2017, 07:51:32 AM »

will you have a gasket between the lower edge of the glass and the body?

gbfab · « **Reply #94 on:** April 29, 2017, 08:22:45 AM »

Yes, Steele Rubber makes an extruded rubber channel that is only 7/16 tall with a 5/16 fin on the front side. Really works well for sealing the windshield at the cowl. Part # 19-0005-99

gbfab · « **Reply #95 on:** May 09, 2017, 12:01:39 PM »

Since I have everything up high and easy to work on I decided to go ahead and make the side panels now. Kind of have to compromise with the dies I have but it should turn out ok.

gbfab · « **Reply #96 on:** May 13, 2017, 10:28:02 AM »

Left side done. 10-32 button heads will be replaced with #3 Dzus fasteners for final mounting. The nose on the front bottom panel is made from 1/4 flat aluminum and fastened from the backside. I have made these before by forming the aluminum from one piece but is way too much work and this way looks a lot cleaner. I have a couple of side vents left that I haven't sold so I will probably put those on also.

gbfab · « **Reply #97 on:** May 13, 2017, 10:43:50 AM »

One or two sets of these vents will go on also. They are bare brushed steel now. Not sure if I will have them chromed or clear coated.

gbfab · « **Reply #98 on:** May 14, 2017, 12:42:23 PM »

A better idea of how they look mounted. Vents won't go on until the car is on the ground on four wheels. I found out the hard way that if they are off a little bit it looks like hell.

duaneshotrods · « **Reply #99 on:** May 16, 2017, 07:27:25 AM »

Quote from: gbfab on May 14, 2017, 12:42:23 PM

A better idea of how they look mounted. Vents won't go on until the car is on the ground on four wheels. I found out the hard way that if they are off a little bit it looks like hell.

Sure has a nice fit, well done!

Corny Deuce · « **Reply #100 on:** May 16, 2017, 08:55:44 PM »

I inquired previously about your front spring set up.
A follow up question does this design ride better than a properly set up leaf spring?
Does it eliminate choppiness and harshness of the leaf spring?

gbfab · « **Reply #101 on:** May 17, 2017, 08:36:47 AM »

I really couldn't tell you for sure. The last 3 cars I have built have all had coil overs on the front mainly because I like the way it looks and the ability to change spring rated and dampening. I don't think I have ridden in a " properly " set up leaf spring car. The problem is that you start with a short wheelbase, put on a solid beam type axle, short travel suspension, maybe 4 inches, small front tires with very little cushion effect, you will have a pretty rough riding car. I love the way my 3 window rides but if you get on a concrete freeway with expansion joints every 20ft you will definitely notice it. The first thing I tell people who ride in my car for the first time is this car does NOT ride like my Suburban.

gbfab · « **Reply #102 on:** June 07, 2017, 05:38:27 PM »

Finishing up the rear track bar so I can put everything on the ground and set the front suspension up for the ride height. Bar made from 7/8 .120 wall 4130 with 5/8 rod ends at both ends. Mounting plates are 3/16 stainless.

gbfab · « **Reply #103 on:** June 17, 2017, 02:02:59 PM »

Now that the rear suspension is finished its time to decide on how low I want the front to be. Really need to roll it out of the garage and get a idea from a distance.

gbfab · « **Reply #104 on:** July 15, 2017, 03:18:00 PM »

Finally getting around to finishing the radius rods and getting the front end set up. 100-112 deg. temps around here not too fun to work in. Bought some stainless batwings, perch bolts and stainless rod ends from Speedway and not real impressed. I assumed that just the tops of the bolts would be chromed but the full length was chromed and would not fit the axle. Removed all the plating off the shaft made them fit. Batwings were also too narrow and not parallel to the axle bosses. Worst of all the threads on the stainless rod ends were oversize and needed to be chased. Not easy and a new die cost twice what the rod end did.

aussiesteve · « **Reply #105 on:** July 15, 2017, 03:22:17 PM »

Speedway,you get what you pay for

gbfab · « **Reply #106 on:** July 18, 2017, 01:33:58 PM »

Decided to make a clevis for the front track bar from 1/4" stainless to mount to the front shock bolt.

gbfab · « **Reply #107 on:** July 26, 2017, 02:50:00 PM »

Front suspension completed except for modifying the So-Cal steering damper for a rod end. Had a few minor changes for clearance under full bump and right, left steering lock but everything is fine now. 400lb spring on the shocks now but I'm pretty they will be to stiff due to the steeper shock angle but I will know for sure after it is a driver for a while. Now to pull the body off, do all the finish welding and start building the exhaust.

Austin Ron · « **Reply #108 on:** August 07, 2017, 10:01:18 AM »

I've always thought about running coil overs on the front. How do they ride?

Neat car!

gbfab · « **Reply #109 on:** August 07, 2017, 04:33:32 PM »

It took a while to get the pre-load and spring right but all of my cars ride really nice.

gbfab · « **Reply #110 on:** August 12, 2017, 02:49:59 PM »

When I put in all the steel reinforcement I also welded small eyelets on the lower tubes to attach lifting straps to. Glad I did, not a lightweight body anymore. Once I got the balance point figured out, a piece of cake to lift off with the cherry picker. No more buying a case of beer and calling three more guys to help with the lifting.

duaneshotrods · « **Reply #111 on:** August 12, 2017, 05:07:20 PM »

Quote from: gbfab on August 12, 2017, 02:49:59 PM

When I put in all the steel reinforcement I also welded small eyelets on the lower tubes to attach lifting straps to. Glad I did, not a lightweight body anymore. Once I got the balance point figured out, a piece of cake to lift off with the cherry picker. No more buying a case of beer and calling three more guys to help with the lifting.

Great idea & you can keep the beer for yourself.

gbfab · « **Reply #112 on:** August 15, 2017, 05:10:29 PM »

Left side pipe done back to the muffler. 2 1/4 stainless with a slip joint at the trans. Torq-tite band clamps will seal everything up.